It's rare I get to say this, but there's
something to be admired in the brazenly honest marketing materials for
Péter Kerekes's documentary Cooking History. With the tagline "6 wars,
10 recipes, 60 million dead," the film explores the world of military
chefs during wartime. It is both a brilliantly executed micro-history,
providing insight into universal truths about war and combat
via a small subset of people, as well as one of the funniest films of the year.
Cooking History traces the history of
twentieth century European warfare though the stories of food service
people. Those we meet run the gamut from a field cook who worked in the
two foot
wide kitchen of a nuclear submarine to an elderly Russian woman who was
conscripted into the war effort at a young age to a personal chef of
Yugoslavian president Josip Broz Tito.
Each new cook is introduced with 'helpful' recipes of hearty, comfort
food made in enormous proportions. ("Baked Ziti: 3 quarts oil,
175 pounds ground beef, 150 pounds dried penne pasta, 32 pounds
Mozzarella cheese, a pinch of salt. Serves one thousand.")
Excluding
the scenes depicting graphic animal slaughter, this film provides an
apolitical, strangely pleasant framework for understanding the mix of
honor, obligation and
reservation most of the subjects feel about their wartime experiences.
For example, we encounter a Jewish breadmaker who survived the
concentration
camps then moved to Argentina, intent on poisoning former SS officers
who escaped Nuremberg justice. While he never states his track record
(possibly for legal reasons), there are
reports that indicate many
former SS
officers have been executed by avenging Jewish
death squads.
Recounted stories are intercut with footage of a wood burning oven being airlifted
by helicopter to a military training camp located in a distant, unnamed outpost. The journey of this mass of industrialized steel's heroic,
yet unnatural flight through pastoral countryside, knowing it will
create a bounty of food for people desperately in need of reassurance
and good morale (especially when viewed in a
festival setting where chances to eat are few and far between) takes on a nearly mythic proportion.
As an interviewer, Kerekes has an odd hiccup. He
occasionally slides into Barbara Walters-mode, asking a rhetorical
question clearly designed to elicit an emotional outburst. When the
Russian
woman is asked "Why do you honor the dead so elaborately?" Kerekes does
not manipulate the moment with editing to look like something
meaningful happens. He leaves us with her brief, weary glance, filming
her as she returns to laying meat blintzes on the snow-covered graves
of dead soldiers, politely ignoring the question. These moments haunt,
precisely because the rest of the film is so ruthlessly committed
to finding the dark bits of humor in human perseverance. At first
glance, it seems that the two styles are sullying each other. But the
awkward situation is repeated twice, clearly a comment about the
ultimately mundane ways in which we are able to sympathize with human tragedy.
Many of the people interviewed have had decades to
process their feelings about these experiences and many have long since
returned to civilian life. Along with the gregarious nature of
professional chefs (a world I only occasionally glimpse through the
books, interviews and television appearances of Anthony Bourdain),
Cooking History maintains enough detachment and political distance to
be hilarious, riveting and edifying.
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